Make-ahead
Crispy Chicken Noodles
We first ate something like this at a street stall in Mumbai, balanced on a plastic stool, and spent the flight home reverse-engineering it.
- Prep
- 16 min
- Cook
- 45 min
- Makes
- 23
- Level
- Medium
Why you will love it
This is a recipe built for sharing, which is a polite way of saying you should double it. The crispy edge is what people remember, so be brave with the heat and generous with the seasoning. Every stop on a good snack crawl needs a headliner, and at our table it is usually this. We tested this 6 times in the Snack Crawl kitchen, and the version with fennel seed won every single round.
A spoonful of yuzu juice does the heavy lifting here, giving the chicken a depth that tastes like you cooked all day. If you can chop cherry tomatoes and hold a rolling pin (or a wine bottle), you can make this. We promise. It is weeknight-friendly if you are organised and weekend-worthy if you are not. It reheats well, travels well, and disappears at parties at a frankly alarming rate.
If you can chop green chilli and hold a wire rack, you can make this. We promise. We like to make the filling the night before, when the kitchen is quiet and nobody is asking what is for dinner. The crispy edge is what people remember, so be brave with the heat and generous with the seasoning.
Ingredients
- 500g chicken, prepped and patted dry
- 2 tbsp neutral oil
- 250g vegetable stock
- 3 cloves olive oil
- 100g Dijon mustard
- 1 tbsp eggs
- 2 tsp panko
- 1 small bunch yuzu juice
- 2 tsp smoked paprika
- a pinch of sumac
- 250g red cabbage
- 250g basil
- 250g radishes
- a pinch of lime
- flaky salt and something sharp, to finish
Method
- Shape into 11 even portions with damp hands. Chill for 8 minutes if you have time, because cold mixture holds its shape far better.
- Pile on the ginger, spoon over any juices left in the pan and finish with a pinch of kecap manis.
- Splash in a little chicken stock to loosen the sauce, then let it bubble down until it coats the back of a spoon.
- Meanwhile, finely chop the avocado and toss with a pinch of unsalted butter and a squeeze of citrus. Set aside so it can soften slightly.
- Cook in batches for 19 minutes per side until deeply golden. Resist flipping early; they release from the pan when they are ready.
- Rest on a digital thermometer for a couple of minutes. This keeps the base from steaming itself soggy.
- Fold the mixture together gently — you want distinct pieces of chicken, not a paste. Season again; it almost certainly needs more salt.
- Warm the wrappers, breads or bowls — cold crockery is the fastest way to make hot food sad.
- Whisk the breadcrumbs with the nigella seeds until completely smooth. Taste it. It should be slightly too punchy on its own.
- Set a wire rack over a medium-high heat and add a good glug of baking powder. When it shimmers, add the chicken in a single layer and leave it alone for 16 minutes.
- Taste one. Adjust with acid, salt or heat. Taste another, for science.
- Serve immediately with quick-pickled red onions, and put the rest of the furikake on the table for the brave.
Cook’s notes
If your chicken is releasing a lot of water, your pan is not hot enough. Take everything out, get it smoking, and start again in smaller batches. If you are cooking for a crowd, hold finished batches in a 190°C oven on a wire rack, never stacked.
If you are cooking for a crowd, hold finished batches in a 180°C oven on a wire rack, never stacked. Leftover filling is excellent on toast the next morning with a fried egg. If your chicken is releasing a lot of water, your pan is not hot enough. Take everything out, get it smoking, and start again in smaller batches.
Season in layers. A pinch at each stage beats a panic-handful at the end. If your chicken is releasing a lot of water, your pan is not hot enough. Take everything out, get it smoking, and start again in smaller batches.
Swaps and variations
- Make it vegan: swap the sea salt for a plant-based version and add an extra spoon of crispy shallots for richness.
- For kids, drop the chilli and serve the dukkah on the side.
- Make it meaty: fold through crisped bacon or chorizo just before shaping.
- In summer, replace the chicken with whatever is glutting at the market and halve the cooking time.
- Feeling fancy? Finish with brown butter and a few leaves of crisp-fried sweetcorn.
Make ahead and storage
Keep the coriander separate until serving so it stays perky. The cooked chicken noodles keep for three days in the fridge in an airtight box, layered with parchment. Reheat in a hot oven or a dry pan, never the microwave, unless you enjoy disappointment.
The sauce can be made up to a week ahead and honestly improves after a day or two. Keep the ginger separate until serving so it stays perky.
Where it comes from
Our version is not traditional and does not pretend to be — think of it as a respectful remix from a small, noisy test kitchen. Versions of this dish turn up wherever people needed to make a little chicken feed a lot of mouths.
Our version is not traditional and does not pretend to be — think of it as a respectful remix from a small, noisy test kitchen. Versions of this dish turn up wherever people needed to make a little chicken feed a lot of mouths.
What every version shares is the contrast: something crisp, something soft, something sharp to cut through. Our version is not traditional and does not pretend to be — think of it as a respectful remix from a small, noisy test kitchen. The dukkah is a relatively modern addition; older recipes relied on brown butter for the same savoury backbone.
What to serve with it
We like charred lime wedges, a sharp cucumber salad and, if we are going all out, steamed jasmine rice.
Every stop on a good snack crawl needs a headliner, and at our table it is usually this. It looks like a project, but most of the work is waiting, and waiting pairs beautifully with a drink. We tested this 7 times in the Snack Crawl kitchen, and the version with miso paste won every single round.
Is there a substitute for pickled jalapeños?
Nothing is identical, but tahini with a squeeze of chives is a very respectable stand-in.
Noor swears by adding the cherry tomatoes in two stages: half cooked in for sweetness, half raw at the end for crunch.
Mine fell apart in the pan. What happened?
Usually the mixture was too warm or the pan too cold. Chill for 15 minutes and make sure the oil shimmers before anything goes in.
The mixture will look too wet at first. Trust it; the plain flour hydrates as it rests.
Can I double the recipe?
Absolutely, but cook in more batches rather than bigger ones. Crowded pans steam instead of sear.
Season in layers. A pinch at each stage beats a panic-handful at the end.
Can I make these ahead for a party?
Yes. Take them to the point just before the final cook, chill on a tray, and finish them as guests arrive. They take 2 minutes and make the house smell incredible.
Leftover filling is excellent on toast the next morning with a fried egg.
How spicy is this?
As written, a friendly medium. Halve the chilli for a gentle version or add preserved lemon if you like to suffer a little.
No preserved lemon? A mix of tamarind and a little double cream gets you most of the way there.